…on the Flor again!

Everyone & anyone who can seems to be on holiday these days, August 2026. Glorious Goodwood has been glorious, well done Bow Echo, and down here we are taking stock, sweeping the ‘Flor’ and preparing for Q4. Alas, no hols for us this year.

What we have been doing is catching up with some of the young winemakers, and the not so young winemakers with some new tricks up their vinous sleeves. Needless to say one has popped up from the bottom of the world, and the other two are from nearer to home, Spain!

Riccitelli Rancio MR NV bottle and cork

Matías Riccitelli from Las Compuertas (Mendoza) has finally turned his attention to the world of FLOR. Not the first from Argyland, as we were enjoying PerSe (Gualtallary, Mendoza) ‘Volare de Flor’ a few years back and we are still waiting for the next barrel to emerge from this prestigious estate. Matías calls his wine ‘Wine of Patience’. using Oxidative & Biological aging. When asked about the wine at last week’s tasting. This is what he had to share with us:

“For many years I have explored the world of biological and oxidative aging. A universe I discovered thanks to producers I deeply admire, who inspired me to embark on this path. Today, I strive to make these wines a unique interpretation of our terroirs. Because grape varieties are merely the channel of communication; what truly matters is that each bottle reflects the landscape from which it originates. Under the veil of flor, the yeasts slowly consume some of the alcohol and glycerol. It is as if they are stripping away the flesh of the wine to reveal its bone: the tension, the salinity, and that sense of minerality that was always there, waiting to be revealed. In oxidative aging, something different occurs. Oxygen ceases to be an enemy and becomes an ally, building depth, texture, and complexity over the years. These are wines that do not seek immediacy or exuberant fruit. They seek to express place & time with Vintage Fortificado 2024 and maybe a different way of understanding wine. After many years, starting this year, Hijos del Sol (SONS OF SOL) Rancio NV and SEMILLON (Rio Negro) DE FLOR are no longer personal projects; they are now available to everyone. I hope you will enjoy them as much as I enjoyed creating them.” – Matías R. (Argentina) .. all from the horses mouth!

Camino del Pilar 2018 alongside Chateau d'Arlay Vin de Paille 2018

The Spanish ´Flor´ comes from Comando G up there in Sierra de Gredos who have been producing Camino del Pilar since 2018. 12 months under Flor and 12 months in demijohns before bottling. We still have a bottle or two in stock from 2018, 2020 & the 2021 flors! Made from Albillo and leaving us with a linear, mineral & spicy expression of that grape. Albillo tends to show ripe pear and green apple with of course some peach & apricot hints. A wine to die for! These wines produced under ´flor´ are definitely sipping wines rather than quaffers. One of the reasons they are bottled in 50cl or 37.5cl is for this purpose. When the mercury and summer temperature at home starts to hit the roof, a slightly chilled glass does wonders for the soul rather than buckets of pointless Pinot Grigio.

Wooden case of M. Ant. de la Riva Jerez wines

The third producer of a ´´Flor´´ that we have been sipping these days comes from Jerez de la Frontera, the home of flor of course. Willy Pérez and Ramiro Ibáñez two local chaps came across some flor notes by Manuel Antonio de la Riva in the 1920s. They wanted to revive the soul of this Jerez wine with the Palomino vines grown there on ancient albariza soils. These wines today stand at the crossroads of history and innovation. They are super profound and of course in very limited edition:

Macharnudo San Cayetano is their flagship wine and a defining expression of modern Jerez. From a three-hectare parcel within the Grand Cru vineyard Macharnudo, planted to old-vine Palomino on limestone-rich albariza soils, it embodies purity, minerality and Atlantic energy. Fermented in a mix of stainless steel and old sherry butts, a delicate veil of flor lends subtle complexity. Saline, textured and deeply expressive, Macharnudo San Cayetano captures the very essence of Jerez terroir, proving that Palomino can rival the world’s greatest whites.

Miraflores Alta comes from the coastal vineyards near Sanlúcar de Barrameda, this Palomino based white offers a brighter, more saline profile. The proximity to the sea lends a delicate lift, with hints of green apple, almond and sea spray. It showcases the influence of ocean breezes and lighter albariza soils, offering an elegant, zesty expression of Jerez.

El Notario is aged in old American oak under a thin veil of flor, El Notario bridges the gap between unfortified table wine and traditional Fino. Its texture is round yet taut, marked by notes of chamomile, nuts and baked lemon. It reflects Pérez and Ibáñez’s pursuit of structure and depth without fortification.

Manzanilla Pasada is produced in tiny quantities, this is a rare old Manzanilla drawn from selected butts aged for many years in Sanlúcar. Combining the finesse of the coast with the complexity of long ageing, it delivers nutty, saline depth balanced by lifted flor character.

I hope you find all of this interesting. I know it’s a little off the beaten track, but if you are looking for something totally original to taste drink (sip!) and enjoy, I would def. give these a go. You will not be disappointed!

They all go extremely well with salted & toasted nuts. Olives, Charcuterie & especially Jamon Crudo. I have tried them with Oysters and with Sashimi (raw fish) and also Sardines. Any dish with Anchovies, and if you have some mature Manchego or even grilled Halloumi cheeses, it will be a dream.

If you need more info: william@worldwineconsultants.com

Harvest crew at Chacra during picking

‘Happy pickers’