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– The Argy 100 –
The Argy 100 may sound like a throw back to the good olde days of National hero Juan Manuel Fangio, known locally as ‘el Chueco’, the winner of five Formula 1 World Driver’s Championship titles during the 1950s. Alas, this is not the case here, my Argy 100 concerns a tasting that we had last night where my friend, Pablito, over there in Parque Patricios, expertly held a one-off and first ever historical tasting of all eleven, to date, Parker’s 100 point wines made in the Republic of Argyland, and ironically all made in the wine province of Mendoza, tasted & pointerized by Senor Guttierez MW. I think Luis should come back soon and re-taste them all as it would be fascinating to see his new scores. Didn’t the Parker boys hear about Rio Negro (Chacra) or for that matter Chubut (Otronia) or Salta (Tacuil). I know that T.Atkin MW and James Suckling NMW made strides in that direction as the later pointerized the 2018 Bodega Chacra ”32′ (Rio Negro) with the big one hundred, and when it is a good bottle, it’s an outstanding bottle. The local NMW is Joaquin Hidalgo, who comments on behalf of Vinous, and thank goodness has the good sense to restrain himself a bit as I do not think to date he has managed to wave the 100 point wand in anyones direction. Congrats! If I am not wrong his 98/100pts was correctly placed upon the broad shoulders of the 2021 Cheval des Andes, Mendoza. The good team work of both Ch.Cheval Blanc (Bordeaux) & Terrazas de los Andes (Uco Valley)
So, on this muggy August Wednesday evening, upon arrival there where two chilled whites to refresh and clear the palate, in anticipation of the thunder points:
2022 Michelini Irma Liberata Sauvignon Blanc (Crianza con Flor)
The most expensive Sauvignon Blanc made in Gualtallary, if not in the whole of Latin America, and yes folks it’s going to be one of those evenings where ”price/quality” or whatever that awful expression is and says, will come to nothing. Price has no ceiling in Argentina when it comes to their 100 pointers.
2022 Adrianna Vineyard White Stones Chardonnay
A barrel fermented and unfiltered Chardonnay, vines are in Tupungato, and this is all put together by one of the Catena Zapata children, and their Mister Vigil.
2013 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary
This is where Mister Vigil decides to put some elbow into his Cabernet Franc. I cannot remember how many times I have tried this wines since it’s release in 2018 but I still cannot finish the bottle, let alone a glass of the stuff. It’s just awful. As hard has nails, no real character and more
2019 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary
Again, giving that olde Cab/Franc a bit of head here. At least it’s juicy and fresh unlike the 2013. Herbal and a touch spiceyness but really are you prepared to pay north of 300 quid a bottle for this tripe? go figure.
2018 As Bravas
This is a new on me, and I am not suprised as it’s so bad. Made from Garnacha. The Vigil character brought the vine stock from Gredos in Spain, apparently, and who knows in who’s suitcase it arrived in as it’s pretty dam hard to import legally this kind of material into Argentina. You cannot even bring a good cheese in your bad. The customs will confiscate and destroy it. This wine has an eggy nose that I am sure is popular in New Age circles, it’s fruity, flowery and if I get a headache tomorrow morning I will know which wine was to blame here. If this was a bottle of wine purchased from a supermercado Chino in Capital Federal, I could understand it’s a quaffable party wine, but at upwards and again from 300 quid a bottle, sorry forget it. The back label tells me that the wine spent 64 months in Foudre (That’s over 5 years in a 2.500ltr capacity barrell) and then a year resting in the bottle. Again, I could not finish the glass and ended up blending this with my 2013 Gran Enemigo. Acceptable!
2016 Catena Zapata River
Malbec of course and a slight relief from the previous wine. I rather like the tannins in this wine. Silky and sexy as if they where in a heady Saint Emillion. Rich and a California style with all the trappings of a high bill. 600 quid plus+ (I am not suprised the wine mkt is so messed up these days, this makes no sense at all)
2021 Catena Zapata River
Floral, minty, tannic and a little more character than the 2016 vintage. A Malbec with cassis and licorice notes backed up with some silky blackberryness. Very quaffable and more affordable than anything drunk as yet this evening. A hi-end restaurant Vice wine destined for Miami probably.
2016 Zuccardi Finca Piedra Infinita
This wine is a little bit of a historic wine for me as it was the first 100 pointer from Mendoza that I actually paid attention to and bought a stack of it. I still have most of it lying at LCB VT if your interested. (william@worldwineconsultants.
2018 Zuccardi Gravascal
Everyone at the table seems to like this wine, except me. Yes it’s huge. Full of wild herb and is super tannic. Pablo, el head honcho, told me that the Gravascal refers to the Gravel in the soil there in Paraje Altamira. That would then explain the mouth full of gravelyness and if that’s what turns you on, great. Not for me! And again a hint of sulphur on the nose. A very odd wine, this bottle, indeed.
2019 Zuccardi SuperCal
Here we go again. Malbec grown in Paraje Altamira with a mix of gravel bathed in calcium carbonate, hence the Cal bit. Medicine cabinet on the nose and very very dark solid wine. Sorry, but what is it with these people and the stoney stuff. Another wine probably suited for wine tastings only and Sommeliers, or a WSET wine course. But alas, not for enjoyment.
2021 Zuccardi Gravascal
Mouthfulls of little stones and yes just slightly more drinkable than the 2018 vintage, but a juicy blend of calcareous soils and gravel all mixed up with 100% Malbec. If you are sitting your wine tasting exams, these are super easy wines to spot. Good luck! and if you actually have this wine in your cellar and any patience left, go back to it in 2030. It just may open up a little.
2018 PerSe La Craie
At last we are finally getting to the church or cathedral of a serious wine here, albeit actually grown and made in a Monastery up there in Gualtallary. A very clever blend of Malbec (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%) with great balance and lovely weight. Quite delicious now but a real keeper. Unfiltered! and a proper sensible wine for all wine lovers out there.
2019 PerSe La Craie
The follow on vintage from 2018 and brilliant! The balance of tannins and acidity with this super tasty and stringent wine. I seriously want more of it please. The same mix, 70%+30%, as 2018 vintage, and what a profound wine coming from the PerSe stable. Both these PerSe wines are World Class and deserve every point of the one hundred that they where awarded.
To sum up on the night, I would say that if Roberto Parker Jnr and been scoring these wines personally, he would have given them old school points of between 80-93 points on all of them, except the last two wines, which would definitly be in his 96-100 zone. It does of course open up another discussion on what on earth this modern day point system has to do anymore with the ‘perfect’ wine, which was the whole idea in the first place.
The Original Parker Rating System (1982)
96 – 100 = Extraordinary
90 – 95 = Oustanding
80 – 89 = Above average to very good
70 – 79 = Average
50 – 69 = Below average to poor
J.M.Fangio Esq. 1911-1995
The Original W.P.H. Rating system (2025)
– Buy this wine by the case quantity
– Buy the wine in bottle quantity +
– Mediocre but drinkable
– Boring & avoid
– Undrinkable
”NOTA BENE” M.W. = Master of Wine -O- N.M.W = None Master of Wine