Vina Cobos was founded in 1997 by Paul Hobbs, Andrea Marchiori & Luis Barraud at Lújan de Cuyo, Mendoza. The production is centered on the release of wines from old vines with low yields. The most interesting of their ‘crus’ are the Bramare Single Vineyard (not to be mistaken by the simple Bramare label) and Cobos. The change in gear at this level sees these wines undergo fermentation with indigenous yeasts, oak ageing in expensive barrels with fining and filtration avoided for a maximum expression in flavours. It’s with the Bramare Single Vineyard (Estate) where terroir expression is quite remarkable. In particular, the Marchiori Vineyard, which is owned by Andrea Marchiori’s family. Some of the vines here are more than 50 years of age and lean into a south-eastern exposure that result in wines of both opulence and balance. The Malbec produced here is profound, long-lived and a seriosuly quite outstanding wine. At the very top of the estate’s portfolio is the Cobos label which includes the Malbec and a Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon blend called Corte uNico, which was renamed Volturno, after some hiccup with the boys over in Vega Sicilia. By 2021 they have racked up 100 point wines on two occassions. The first was with the Cobos 2011 Marchiori Malbec (100/100pts) and then recently came along their 2017 Cobos Malbec, which I believe is a blend of grapes (Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon) from all three of their top sites: Marchiori, Volturno and Chanares.
2011 Cobos Malbec Marchiori (100/100pts)
The nose is phenomenal in this wine. It makes my head spin with so much beautiful perfumes of violets, lavender, sandalwood, mineral, dried fruits, figs. Full body, with phenomenal depth of fruit that gives layers of structure and richness. I am amazed. This is a wine to try in 2020 but so impressive now. This is the Harlan of Argentina but from Malbec instead of Cabernet Sauvignon. 1.500 bottles where filled and a few magnums*. This is as good as it gets for Malbec.
9 bottles @ GBP495bt/ib
12 magnums* @ GBP998mg/ib
2017 Cobos Marchiori Malbec (100/100pts)
2017 Cobos shows a bright ruby red color with black hues. Complex and elegant nose. For the first time, this mixture has the contribution of Cabernet Franc, which adds to the more complex notes of the mixture of gunpowder and pepper. In the mouth it is intense, round and with a mineral texture. Energetic and exceptionally balanced finish.
2017 Cobos Bramare Estate (95/100pts)
Bramare Malbec 2017 from the Marchiori Vineyard exhibits is a deep-red purplish colour, with a sweet and fruity aroma. Exquisite flavours of red and black berries, tobacco and liquorice invade the mouth. Sweet tannins and an outstanding volume give complexity and structure, leading to a long and intense aftertaste.
Another note from the same bottle, revisited two hours later. It’s still an elegant and intense wine. On the nose it shows great complexity, highlighting it’s minerality. Graphite, tobacco, chocolate, red fruit, spices such as cloves and white pepper. In the mouth it’s unctuous, pleasant, long and persistent. It presents sweet tannins, a pleasant sensation of sweet and sour fruit, caramel and beeswax. Very attractive for its silky texture and long finish.
12 bottles @ GBP60bt/ib
Prices are quoted per bottle/magnum Under Bond ex LCB VT & Caves Baires, in GBPounds. (Worldwide Shipping quotes available with CID, DHL & Via CargO)
‘Hobboss Coboss, toil and trouble, still making great wine, on the double!’ W.P.H.