Mon Brave, Mon Fortino!
Cantina Giacomo Conterno
is one of the greatest names in all of the Piedmont.
The estate was formed in 1908 when Giacomo’s father, Giovanni Conterno started a wine bar in the village of San Giuseppe. Giovanni made Barolo from purchased grapes and sold whatever was not needed at the tavern in barrel at this time, as was the custom throughout the region in the early twentieth century. Their flagship Riserva Barolo, Monfortino, was first conceived as a means of showing off the quality of their best wine, and was first bottled on its own in either 1912 or 1920. There are reports that a 1912 Monfortino was made by Giovanni, but the family members cannot recall if this was indeed the case. In any event, after his return from WW1, Giacomo Conterno and his father Giovanni certainly made a 1920 Monfortino together, and a legend was started.
Giovanni Conterno passed away in 1934 and his son Giacomo took over running both the tavern and the winery. Giacomo had two sons, another Giovanni and an Aldo, who were given the reigns of the family business in 1961. Giovanni (grandson of the estate’s founder) had vinified the 1958s with his father, and was responsible for the estate’s wines from 1959 onwards. Younger brother, Aldo Conterno was interested in experimenting with a more modern style of Barolo, and the estate was split between the two brothers in 1969. Giovanni continued on making wines as his father and grandfather had done before them, making great, traditional Barolo of uncompromising quality.
Today, the torch has been passed to fourth generation winemaker, Roberto Conterno. Roberto worked side by side with his father for many years before his passing in 2003. Roberto himself is one of the most fastidious and perfectionist winemakers we have experienced, and many feel he has taken the winery to even greater heights than his predecessors. The Conterno style of Barolo has always been ultra-traditional, with a long maceration followed by extended ageing in large, old oak casks (botti).
In the old days, ageing was anywhere from four to ten years prior to bottling, and often longer, sometimes with multiple bottlings from the same vintage. For the Monfortino, it used to be held in a single 4,000-5,000 liter botti for a minimum of ten years prior to its bottling (the 1970 Monfortino was not bottled until 1985!). Today, the ”regular” Barolos are aged for four years before bottling, and the Monfortino for seven years – the only ”modernist” concession in the entire vinification and ageing process! Like many top producers, in the old days, the Conternos made their Barolo exclusively from purchased grapes. The Conterno family sourced from some of the best growers mostly in the commune of Serralunga d’Alba but also surrounding villages. The 1920 Monfortino, for example, was made from purchased grapes from the Le Coste vineyard in Monforte d’Alba.
In 1974, the Conterno family purchased the 16 hectare vineyard of Cascina Francia, one of Serralunga D’Alba’s choicest parcels. The first vintage to be produced from this vineyard was legendary 1978…quite an auspicious beginning! Interestingly, while the 1978 “regular” Barolo was made from grapes of Cascina Francia, it was not until the 1980 vintage that the name of the vineyard appeared on the label of the regular bottling. Today, the estate owns vineyards in three of the top Crus in the commune of Serralunga, having added Ceretta in 2008 and Arione in 2015. Eventually, there will be three single-vineyard Barolo bottlings at Conterno, plus the Monfortino, which is only released in the best vintages.
At present, both the Monfortino and the Francia bottling come from the Cascina Francia vineyard. The grapes for these two wines are earmarked while they are still on the vine, with the vintage’s very best grapes selected to become Monfortino. Fermentation of both bottlings is identical with the exception that the Monfortino witnesses no temperature control and receives a slightly longer maceration. In fact, two separate cuvees are made each year until a determination is made – usually several years after the harvest – whether to release the Monfortino on its own, or to combine it with the Cascina Francia to make one wine. The Monfortino selection is only made if it is determined to be significantly different, both qualitatively and stylistically, from the rest of the Cascina Francia.
In addition to the outstanding Baroli made by Giacomo Conterno, there is also Barbera d’Alba produced from both Cascina Francia and Ceretta. The Barbera are aged two years in large botti and are some of the most age-worthy and brilliant examples of this underrated grape to be found in Piemonte.
Please note, if it’s at all of interest to you: That beginning with the 2010 Barolo and 2012 Barbera from Cascina Francia, the wines will labeled as simply “Francia” in order to to comply to the new standardization of Barolo cru’ names across the region.
While there is a fifth generation of Conternos now potentially waiting in the wings, the legacy of this winery goes beyond the century of truly benchmark Baroli produced. Certainly, the Conterno family belong in the same visionary breath as Bruno Giacosa and Angelo Gaja in helping to create a market for fine Piedmontese wines that can compete among the world’s finest and most prestigious examples. Roberto himself has quietly and steadfastly pushed the limits of quality by focusing on perfecting minute details in the viticulture and winemaking process. First, the winery has experimental vineyards where various massale selection varietals, both new and old, are tested and evaluated for future use.
In addition, the winery itself is a meticulous ”labratory” for creating the finest wines possible. No expense has been spared in equipment to be used for qualitative improvement. His de-stemmer, for example, is a one-of-a-kind machine that he helped to create, and operates with a level of precision more like a japanese sushi chef than other standard winemaking machines! Roberto has also sought to elimate two of the biggest scourges that face the Fine Wine market today, counterfeit wines and corked bottles. Working closely with both cork manufacturers and cork machine producers, he has developed a system that marks each cork with an identifying code that can be cross-referenced to determine authenticity. In addition, he has helped to create a machine that can qualitatively evaluate each and every cork, not only to detect the most minute traces of cork taint, but also to find any tiny deviations in the cork’s structure that could affect its efficacy as a closure. While only time will tell whether this system is 100% perfect, the goal is that Giacomo Conterno will be the first winery ever to fully eliminate corked bottles.
Today, 1st September 2020, we have the following stock (photographed here) available for you lying London City Bond VT. (ex local taxes/worldwide shipping)
6 bottles 2010 Monfortino @ £1,125bt
Every bit as magnificent as it has always been from cask, the 2010 Barolo Monfortino is utterly compelling. Captivating aromatics make a strong first impression. Nuanced and vivid on the palate, the 2010 Monfortino possesses remarkable finesse and power. Classic Monfortino notes of dried rose petal, leather, licorice and incense develop beautifully in the glass as the wine literally takes hold of all the senses. When it was in cask the 2010 was quite structured, but in two tastings after its recent bottling the 2010 has been much more elegant. At times, the 2010 reminds me of the 2004, with perhaps a bit less aromatic intensity but more structure. On paper the 2010 is very high in tannin, and yet that is not the way it feels at all, at least not at this point in its life. A vivid, thrilling wine, the 2010 will soon take its place among the greatest Monfortinos ever made.
1 bottle 1971 Monfortino @ £1.250bt
As good as the older wines are, the 1971 Barolo Monfortino is just insanely beautiful. Still deeply colored and intense to the core, the 1971 delivers a classic Monfortino experience. Layers of dark, mineral-infused fruit flow across the palate in a deep, muscular Monfortino endowed with stunning depth. The 1971 shows why
it’s one of the all-time greats. This is a mind-blowing bottle.
1 bottle 1970 Monfortino @ £1,350bt
The 1970 Barolo Monfortino is spectacular from the moment it is opened. Superb. This is the only wine in our tasting made from purchased fruit in the pre-Cascina Francia days. Savory, perfumed and delicate, the 1970 is the quintessential iron fist in a velvet glove. At 50 years of age, the 1970 shows itself to be one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made. In a word: breathtaking!
1 bottle 1964 Monfortino @ £1,080bt
The 1964 Barolo Monfortino was uncharacteristically sweet, with open, expressive aromatics and gorgeous purity to it’s fruit.
1 bottle 1961 Monfortino @ £1,100bt
Giacomo Conterno’s 1961 Barolo Monfortino was an unexpected last minute surprise. Stylistically it belongs to an earlier period in the winery’s history when the wines were made from purchased fruit as opposed to the Conterno Barolos that followed, all of which were produced from the estate’s Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga. The 1961 was superbly elegant and delicate, with a lovely core of soft, ethereal fruit, fully resolved, fine tannins and an eternal finish. It struck me as very slightly passed its prime. It would have probably been better appreciated if served alongside wines of a similar age, or even better, simply enjoyed on its own. Nevertheless, it was a magical, completely unforgettable bottle.
Also in stock a few bottles of Barolo Cascina Francia
5 bottles 1990 Cascina Francia @ £535bt
1 bottle 1985 Cascina Francia @ £515bt
As usual, everything is offered subject to remaining unsold, and a wee note of thanks here from us to mon brave! A.Galloni for all his brilliant tasting notes. I have on purpose left out the points system here, as you probably know they all win the big 100/100 points, and I believe one of them gets the 99/100 pointer.